Lansdowne on a Budget: A Real Weekend Trip from Delhi

Lansdowne is not a name that trends on Instagram. That is exactly why it is worth going.

This is the story of a real 2-day weekend trip from Delhi to Lansdowne. No rented scooty. No luxury hotel. Just a train, a government bus, an auto rickshaw, and a lot of walking. Total trip cost? Under Rs. 2000 per person.

We did not follow a fixed itinerary. We let the place guide us. And it gave us more than we expected — a forest snake, a hidden Kali Mata temple, a lone deer on a hilltop, and a sunrise that made waking up at 5:30 AM feel like the best decision ever.

If you are planning a Lansdowne trip from Delhi on a budget, this guide is for you.

I travelled to Lansdowne on 12 June 2026 with my wife and our common friends. The trip was planned weeks ago, keeping June summers in mind. The decision was right. Lansdowne’s weather was pleasant and offered us a good escape from the Delhi heat.

Getting There: The Overnight Train to Kotdwar

We boarded Train 14089 from Delhi’s Anand Vihar station. Departure was at 9:45 PM. We reached Kotdwar at 3:55 AM. The journey took about 6 hours.

The overnight timing is actually ideal. You do not lose a daytime hour on travel. You sleep on the train and wake up in the hills.

Kotdwar station is small and peaceful in the early hours. The air is noticeably cooler than in Delhi. That first breath of clean air after stepping off the train is something you remember.

TIP: Book Train well in advance, especially for Friday night departures. The Sleeper class is comfortable for this route.

Kotdwar: First Stop on the Journey

We hired an auto rickshaw from Kotdwar station. The fare was Rs. 20 per person. It dropped us at Sidhbali Temple.

At nearly 5 AM, the temple complex was quiet. A few devotees were already there. The energy of the place is calm and grounding at that hour.

Sidhbali Temple, Kotdwar

Sidhbali Temple is one of the most revered temples in Garhwal. It is dedicated to Lord Hanuman. The temple sits on a hillock beside the Khoh River. Thousands of devotees visit it every year.

We had visited Kotdwar before. Returning to Sidhbali felt familiar. Like meeting an old friend. The temple brought back good memories of our earlier trip to Kotdwar.

As we climbed the stairs of the temple, we could hear the sound of Morning Prayer that had just started. We rushed towards the temple as the sound of hymns sung by priests melodiously calmed our minds. It was attracting us to listen to the hymns from closer.

After reaching the temple, we found that the ‘Darshan’ had not yet started. We waited to get a sight of God while listening to the prayers and watching the surroundings. The bliss was entering my heart through different doors of the body.

The hymns were entering my ears, rejoicing me from within. The Eyes were consuming the scenic views of the hills and the river. The nostrils were taking in the breezy morning air of pure nature mixed with devotional perfumes. The skin was feeling blissful with each touch of the clean air of the hills.

The curtains were soon removed from before the visitors so they could get a sight of Hanuman Ji. We stared at the lord so did the lord. It was a two-way communication, at least for me. I didn’t utter a word, didn’t even think of it, but the feeling within me established the communication between Bajrang Bali and me.

If you are visiting for the first time, spend some time inside the complex. Try to establish communication with the lord. There are multiple shrines to spend time in the devotional atmosphere. The view of the Khoh River from the hillock is peaceful in the early morning light.

Waiting for the Bus — Kotdwar Bus Stand

After the temple visit, we returned to Kotdwar. The railway station and the bus stand are right next to each other. That makes it easy to plan.

The government bus to Lansdowne starts at 8:00 AM. We had some time to wait. The morning market slowly came alive around us. Public toilets are there inside the bus stand as well as adjacent to it, though I didn’t use them. The condition of the bus stand suggests that using the toilet outside the bus stand is better.

Alternatively, you can use the toilet built near the Sidhbali temple, which is managed by Bharat Electronics Limited. It is exceptionally clean and free to use. 

There are restaurants, hotels, and local outlets for meals and breakfast within a range of few meters of the station. They offered veg and non-veg options, but we avoided them as the food and snacks served could not attract us. Instead, we bought some packets of chips and biscuits to consume during the journey.

TIP: The bus stand is right next to Kotdwar railway station. You do not need to go far. Confirm the bus timing at the stand on arrival, as schedules may vary seasonally.

The Government Bus from Kotdwar to Lansdowne — Rs. 95 Per Person

We boarded the Uttarakhand government bus at 8:00 AM. The fare was Rs. 95 per person. We reached Lansdowne at around 10 AM.

The two-hour ride is one of the best parts of the trip. The road climbs steadily into the hills. The views begin almost immediately after leaving Kotdwar.

A small creek followed us for most of the journey. It ran alongside the road, disappearing and reappearing through the trees. The sound of the water was audible even from inside the bus. It was not a full-fledged river. It had many narrow water streams flowing among the different large hills and rocks. The sound of the streams coming from different directions was worth listening to for a longer duration. Since we were on public transport, we missed that opportunity.

The forest got denser as we climbed. Watching the tall pine trees on both sides of the road was a cinematic experience. We got a chance to touch and smell many different species of plants as their branches entered the bus at many spots. It was a soothing experience, and to keep it intact, we plucked a few flowers and leaves to continue smelling them. 

By the time we reached Lansdowne, the landscape had completely transformed from the plains below. And the bus ride! It was adventurous as the driver seemed not to be driving the bus but flying it.

TIP: Take the government bus if you can. It is affordable, reliable, and the road views are excellent. Private taxis exist, but the bus gives you the unhurried experience. If you miss the first bus, hire a taxi because there are not many bus services available.

Lansdowne to Jaiharikhal: The Unexpected Discovery

Our hotel was not in Lansdowne town. It was in Jaiharikhal, a small settlement about 7 km before Lansdowne on the road. We took a shared taxi from Lansdowne to Jaiharikhal. The fare was Rs. 30 per person.

Jaiharikhal is quieter than Lansdowne. It does not get the same tourist footfall. And as we discovered after checking in, that was a blessing.

Checking In and the First View

We checked into our hotel – the Joshi Holiday Home Stay. We had booked a solo double room, which cost around 1200 for the two of us. The room was clean and comfortable. The location was stunning. Surrounded by hills and forest, the hotel had a common balcony that opened to a wide, unobstructed valley view.

Sitting on that balcony after the overnight train and early morning travel felt like the right reward. The hills were green. The air was still. The valley below was quiet. We made a decision on the spot. We were not going back to Lansdowne town that afternoon. We would explore the nature right here.

Afternoon Trek: The Kali Mata Temple Walk

The hotelier told us about a Kali Mata temple nearby. It is a tranquil temple hidden in the hills. It was a few kilometres away from the hotel. The path was a blend of a narrow road and a trail through the hills.

We started our walk at 3:00 PM. We gave ourselves enough time to return before dark. In the hills, it gets dark faster than you expect.

Off the Road and Into the Forest

On the way, we skipped the road and trekked down through the off-road hillside. The trail was steep in places. The forest was dense.

Then it happened.

A small green snake, barely a foot long, crossed just ahead of my wife’s feet. It was shiny. Bright green. It moved fast and disappeared into the grass. I yelled, “Snake!” My wife ran down fast. And then, we froze for a moment.

Being from Delhi, we panicked a little. We could not tell if it was venomous. We did not manage to take a picture. But that moment — the flash of green against the brown earth — stayed with us through the rest of the walk.

The Kali Mata Temple

The temple was peaceful. Small, surrounded by trees, and completely quiet. There were no other visitors when we arrived. It was situated on a narrow hillock with stairs that led to the temple. The stairs were surrounded by tree branches, and my travel mates kept imagining snakes hanging from the branches above. The reason behind it was the sight of a snake on the way behind.

 We stepped on the temple floor. It was wide open, giving a clear view of the valley in its surroundings. Walking further was the small sanctuary, with the beautiful idol of the goddess.

As the priest and temple management teams were not there, the door was locked. We performed ‘Darshan’ from the door-grille. We offered prayers. The atmosphere inside was still and cool. After the city noise of Delhi and the overnight train, this kind of silence felt rare.

We sat for a while before heading back. I experienced the calmness of the surroundings, the energy of the goddess, and quietness within myself. I felt like sitting there for longer, perhaps, performing meditation or just observing the atmosphere, but my travel mates were hurrying. They were feeling a bit frightened due to the sight of the snake earlier. Therefore, we moved back from there quite shortly.

The Evening Return and the Balcony

We reached back at the hotel at around 5 PM. Just as the light was turning golden.

We sat on the balcony. The hills were catching the last light of the sun. The trees stood tall and still. It was the kind of view that makes you stop thinking.

My travel mates went to their room, but my wife and I didn’t. We stayed there for a long time. Just watching. No phone. No rush. We were not even talking but were just staring at the scenic view before us.

We witnessed many shades. The clouds had covered the sunlight over our hotel, but it was beautifully shining on the hills across the valley. Then, there came a moment when a few hills were darkened while the others kept shining.

As the sunset was happening behind our hotel and we were deeply immersed in the joy of witnessing these different shades, we couldn’t watch the sunset. Gradually, all the hills started to get darker, and we moved into the room.

The Dinner

The dinner was delicious and easy on the budget. We asked the hotelier how much food we would need for four people. He suggested the right quantity. We ordered one paneer dish, one dal tadka, and around 15 chapatis. It was just enough for all of us. The total cost came to Rs. 1075.

The food tasted simple and homely. It reminded us of what we cook in our own kitchen. Simple, tasty, healthy, and satisfying.

Day 2: Sunrise, Walking, and the 7 km Trek to Lansdowne

5:30 AM — The Sunrise That Made It Worth It

I woke up at 5:30 AM without an alarm. The reason behind was the wide window of the room. It let the first rays of the sun enter the room to awaken us. It gave a wonderful view of the hills from the room itself. But I wanted to have a clearer panoramic view.

I walked to the balcony. The sky was changing. Pink, then orange, then a deep amber behind the dark ridge of hills. The valley was still in shadow below. It was mesmerizing.

I clicked pictures and made videos. But honestly, no photograph captured what it felt like to stand there in the cold morning air watching the sun climb over the hills.

Soon, my wife also joined me in witnessing that beautiful morning. The sunlight was direct on us, and we stood still, facing the sun. At some point, we decided to walk on quite road passing by the hotel.

Morning Walk in the Hills

After freshening up, we started walking.

The path had pine trees on one side and a valley dropping away on the other. The tall trees created a tunnel of light. The air smelled of pine and damp earth.

We were not in a hurry. We walked slowly. We kept stopping to take in the views.

At some point, we decided we would walk all the way to Lansdowne. It was about 7 km. We had time and energy. The road was too beautiful to skip.

The Raghunath Ji Temple

On the way, we came across a small Raghunath Ji temple. It was built in the old-school village style. Simple stone walls. A small courtyard. No crowds.

We stopped and offered prayers. The temple felt lived-in. Used. Like it belonged to the hills more than to any tourist trail.

The premise has many shrines, including Hanuman Ji temple, Mahadev temple, and a goddess temple. All are newly built, but the Shri Ram Temple is the ancient one. It is situated downstairs and gives an impression of a hut-like structure. It is nostalgic and still feels like something that is the newest.

The Off-Road Climb and the Deer

A little further along, we left the road again.

We found a trail going up a higher hill. Steeper than the one from the day before. But we went anyway.

The climb took 15 to 20 minutes. There was no one else up there. Not a single person.

And then we saw it. A deer-like animal, far away across the hillside. It spotted us at the same moment. We stood completely still. It moved slowly through the trees and disappeared.

One of us said that if a deer is there, a tiger must also be there. We became cautious but didn’t want to skip that trek. We got split. Two of us took the road, but my wife and I continued the hill trek.

After they left us, we feared a bit more. Therefore, we rushed to finish the trek. We felt the adventure at the midpoint, where my wife said I can’t trek anymore. Need to rest for a while. I was also panting but didn’t think of resting due to the fear instilled earlier in the name of the tiger.

We paused, caught our breath, and laughed about it once we reached the top.

That off-road detour saved us about 2 km of road walking. But more than that, it gave us a view and a wildlife sighting that we would have missed entirely on the road.

Hawamahal and the Final Stretch

The off-road trek led us to Hawamahal. It sits about 3 to 3.5 km before Lansdowne. It is a viewpoint with an open ridge and clear sightlines over the valley.

It was not fully operational but under construction. It has two floors, each with benches for the visitors to sit. We sat on a bench and realized that the rust had dyed our trousers. We stayed there, watching the valley views, until our fellow travelers arrived.

Nageshwar Mahadev Temple

On the stretch from Hawamahal to Lansdowne, we found another temple. Nageshwar Mahadev. A small Shiva temple on the roadside.

It was quiet. Well-kept. We stopped, offered a quick prayer, and kept walking. The temple also had a hill-water storage tank. The water tasted clean and fresh, so we drank some and filled our bottles too.

That is one of the things that surprised us about this trip. The hills here are dotted with small temples. Some known, some not. Each one carries its own calm.

Reaching Lansdowne — Under 3 Hours

We reached Lansdowne in under 3 hours of walking. Including all the detours, temple stops, and the off-road climb.

The walk was not exhausting. It was exhilarating. Every turn in the road gave us a new frame to look at.

Places to Visit in Lansdowne

We had already covered Hawamahal, Raghunath Ji Temple, and Nageshwar Mahadev on our walk-in. If you have more time in Lansdowne, here are other places worth visiting:

Tip n Top Point — A popular viewpoint with wide views of the surrounding hills. On clear days, you can spot snow-capped peaks in the distance. We sighted such a view from our hotel’s balcony.

Bhulla Tal — A small, peaceful lake in the middle of town. Boating is available. Good for a quiet evening walk.

St. Mary’s Church — A colonial-era church, now home to a small heritage museum. Worth a short visit if you enjoy old architecture.

War Memorial — A tribute to the soldiers of the Garhwal Rifles. Calm and well-maintained.

Garhwali Mess / Regimental Museum — Showcases the history of the Garhwal Rifles regiment. Lansdowne is their headquarters.

Bhim Pakora — Large boulders balanced on each other, believed locally to have mystical origins. A short, easy walk from the town centre.

Most of these places are close to each other. You can cover them on foot in half a day if you are short on time, like we were.

Getting Back: Shared Taxi to Kotdwar — Rs. 125 Per Person

There was no bus available from Lansdowne when we were ready to leave.

We teamed up with a few other travelers and hired a shared taxi. Total cost was Rs. 1500. Split among the group, it came to Rs. 125 per person. The taxi dropped us at Sidhbali Temple in Kotdwar in about two hours.

TIP: If no bus is available from Lansdowne, check for other travellers heading to Kotdwar. Sharing a taxi keeps costs low and is faster than waiting.

Free Prasad Meal at Sidhbali Temple

Back at Sidhbali Temple in Kotdwar, we found that free meals are distributed throughout the day by the temple. We sat down and ate. Simple food. Dal, rice, sabzi, poori, and pudding. Served with warmth.

It was a fitting way to end the trip. We had started at this temple. We returned to it.

The temple was crowded, and a fair was going on. Locals told us that Sundays in the Jyeshtha month are celebrated here, since it falls on the weekly work holiday. We had some time before our train, so we rested in the courtyard of the nearby Maa Anandmayi Temple.

The Night Train Back: Kotdwar to Delhi

We boarded Train 14090 from Kotdwar at 9:50 PM. We reached Delhi at 4:35 AM.

The return train is a mirror of the journey up. You board in the hills and wake up in the city. Except now you carry the forest with you. A little of it, at least.

Complete Cost Breakdown — Lansdowne Trip from Delhi

Here is the travel cost for this entire trip, per person:

• Round Trip Sleeper class train ticket from Anand Vihar to Kotdwar: Rs. 432
• Auto from Kotdwar station to Sidhbali Temple: Rs. 20
• Government bus from Kotdwar to Lansdowne: Rs. 95
• Sharing taxi from Lansdowne to Jaiharikhal: Rs. 30
• Shared taxi from Lansdowne to Sidhbali Temple, Kotdwar: Rs. 125
• Room tariff for two guests: Rs. 1200 (Rs. 600 per person)
• Dinner at the hotel: Rs. 300
• Total travel cost per person: Rs. 1602

Travel Tips for a Lansdowne Weekend Trip

• Train 14089 from Delhi Anand Vihar is the best option for this route. Book early for weekend travel.
• The bus stand at Kotdwar is right next to the railway station. Easy to navigate.
• Consider staying at Jaiharikhal instead of Lansdowne town. It is quieter, and the natural setting is better.
• Start any forest walk before 3 PM so you are back well before dark.
• Wear closed shoes for any off-road trekking. The terrain is uneven.
• If you plan to walk from Jaiharikhal to Lansdowne, start by 8 AM. The 7 km trek takes 2.5 to 3 hours with stops.
• If no bus is available from Lansdowne, group up with other travellers and share a taxi.
• Carry some cash. ATMs are limited in the area.
• Mobile network is decent on the main road, but can drop in forested areas.

Best Time to Visit Lansdowne

March to June offers clear skies and pleasant weather. October to February is colder, but very peaceful and less crowded. Monsoon months from July to September bring lush green views, but the roads can get slippery.

Weekdays are quieter than weekends throughout the year.

Final Thoughts

This trip did not go according to any plan we had made. We skipped Tadkeshwar Mahadev. We did not rent a scooty. We ended up in Jaiharikhal instead of Lansdowne.

And it was better for it.

The snake on the trail. The deer on the hilltop. The sunrise from the balcony. The 7 km morning walk through pine forests. The free meal at Sidhbali Temple at the end.

None of this was in the original plan. All of it was the trip.

Lansdowne does not need to be expensive or complicated. It just needs your time and a willingness to follow the road where it leads.

This trip offered me an experience that motivates me to do more such journeys. It made me want to go to new places and explore them on foot.